Iran 2008

Yes the trip was a few years ago now but the memories are still strong and I am happy to finally share my trip!!

Why Iran? This was the first question that I was typically asked when I told people that I was going to be visiting Iran. And my response, well it was as simple as ‘why not’. However, I would then go on to say that I felt Iran had so much to offer. Having an Iranian friend here in Australia meant I had been exposed to the culture and I had always been so warmly welcomed, to the point of being overwhelming (in a good way). Also once I started to read about Iran, I was so excited about the possibilities of what I may see and experience.

I am happy to say that after returning home my feelings towards Iran had only intensified. I experienced a land of deep beauty, wonderful food, amazing forests, breathtaking deserts, delicious teas and generous people. It truly was my pleasure to visit Iran and I feel richer for the opportunity.

Masuleh

Ah Masuleh!! Deep forests, misty air, crisp sunsets and mountain slopes are not the first images that usually come into peoples mind when Iran is mentioned. Masuleh is literally sitting on the side of a mountain and because it is so steep and the lanes are so narrow, no cars can access the village. If you are backpacking just walk into the village and people will soon offer you accommodation. The hills nearby are just asking to be explored. Masuleh was… refreshing

Bandar-e Anzali

Bandar-e means Port and this city is on the Caspian Sea. I did a day trip with the family that I was staying with in Rasht. A family that had welcomed me into their home and for about a week shared their lives with me. Saying thankyou does not seem to cover the gratitude that I have. Bandar-e Anzali was… family

Fuman

Fuman is famous for its cookies and basically as soon as you walk into the village you have the wonderful smell of all the bakeries. Sitting just outside of the village is a beautiful castle. The castle is somewhat hidden in the forest and when we arrive it was shrouded in mist. Castle Fuman was… mysterious

Lahijun

The tea fields of Lahijun are something else. To go up into the hills and just walk through the tea plantations takes you to a different place. Lahijun was… relaxing

Esfahan

Esfahan, oh Esfahan. I often found myself overwhelmed with my surrounds and could do nothing else but sit in silence and simply be in the moment. It took all of my focus to remind myself that I was in fact having these amazing experiences. One of my most fond memories is climbing a mountain on a Friday. I think that it was a combination of the challenge, the views and the company. At the end we sat in a park at the base of the mountain and in that moment, through the simple action of eating fruit and having a conversation I was completely content. Esfahan was… emotional

I journeyed within, exploring myself, seeking answers to questions which I was not aware of. But during my journey I realised, or perhaps I learnt, that I was in fact seeking questions to the answers that I already knew. I possessed all I needed to know, I just had to journey to discover it.

 

I was truly privileged to have been welcomed into the homes of a number of locals in Iran. Because of this kindness and generosity that was shown towards me I was able to experience the depth of Iran. On the streets there is a tension, almost a sadness which is driven by the regime and particularly the religious police. But once the front door is closed all of this is stripped away and there is a deep warmth. It did make me sad to see the two lives that need to be led by Iranians, especially by the women but it is also so encouraging to see that in spite of the regime the true culture perseveres. My humblest thanks to those families that afforded me such a unique and fulfilling experience.

Shiraz

Shiraz is known for its gardens, of which I took full advantage of. A long night bus trip had me fairly tired on the first day that I explored Shiraz, so I found myself a cool and comfortable spot on the grass and had a wonderful sleep. Over the following days I spent a lot of time simply appreciating. Shiraz was… peaceful

  

Persepolis and Naqsh-e Rostam

Some of the most significant ruins in Iran. To stand in the middle of Persepolis and imagine it in the ‘glory’ days is nothing short of moving. I closed my eyes and slowly the walls started to be restored, the roof returned and the grand hall hummed with all of the people and the colours danced around the walls. Persepolis and Naqsh-e Rostam was… inspiring

Yazd

Let the romance of the desert surround us, let the romance of the desert take us to a place in our mind that we have never ventured before. Whether it is getting lost in the old city alleyways, joking and smiling with the local kids, climbing to a rooftop to watch the sun disappear over the mountains, eating a camel burger in a ‘fast food joint’; Yazd does not fail to deliver. Yazd was… enchanting

The possibility of discovering the inconceivable excites me beyond measure.

Kharaneq

How many forms of beauty have you looked upon? How many times have you found yourself in a place that pauses time. I sat at the top of a minaret in a deserted village, all alone and witnessed the sunset. Then walked into the desert, lied on a bridge and had a silent mind while millions of stars looked back at me, some even falling towards me. Kharaneq was… magnificent

That is me at the top, enjoying the setting sun.

 
We should aim to master the lessons that we have learnt. That is, we should revisit the lessons as there is always more to learn. One of the most enduring and humbling lessons that I learnt during my journey is the generosity and openness complete strangers showed towards me. It was generosity purely for generosity sake with absolutely no expectation of return, reward or acknowledgement. If I am able to master this lesson, then I feel it would have been time well spent.

Kharaneq is a deserted mud village, surrounded by walls that seem to hold in the silence. I arrived in the village alone but had organised to stay in a guesthouse situated in one of the habitable old houses just outside the walls. I spent the afternoon exploring the village; crawling through gaps in walls to discover the next room; wandering the laneways; sitting on rooftops. When I returned to the guesthouse there were 6 other travellers staying. They had spent the day together so were acquainted with each other and I sat in the corner happy to listen to them chatting. During my exploration I had seen an aqueduct bridge which I wanted to visit and as I listened to the conversations it seemed I was drawn more and more to the bridge.

By now the sun had set and in the soft light of the fire that we were seated around, I looked to the group and with excitement in my eyes invited them all to follow me into the desert. There was some uncertainty at first but soon I was leading them through the deserted laneways of the village, now only lit by the moonlight. We left the village behind us and I navigated them through the surrounding fields and on to the bridge. Water was not flowing through the aqueduct so we lied down and gazed up at the stars. There under the Iranian night sky I could not help but to smile for I knew that I was experiencing something extraordinary.

Chak Chak

A small cave, high in the mountains, in the middle of the desert. It is an important Zoroastrian Fire Temple and legend has it the mountain opened up allowed Zoroastrians to flee a pursuing army. Looking out to the desert I could almost see the dust which would have risen at the heels of the army and what it would have felt like to have seemingly nowhere to go. Chak Chak was… hidden

Naín

Walking through the old covered laneways of Naín, time slows and you really have the chance to absorb all that is around you. Naín was… unexpected

Kashan

Kashan, framed by mountains in the distance this oasis town has some stunning traditional houses. Kashan was… atmospheric

Abyaneh

A red mud brick village deep in a valley. Walking through the small laneways I begin to imagine what it would be if my life was here in the village. I imagine winter time and I am next to the fire in my second storey room surveying the snow covering the laneways and trees. Even though I am just imagining it, a deep calm falls over me. Abyaneh was… inviting

So, Iran was… refreshing, family, mysterious, relaxing, emotional, peaceful, inspiring, enchanting, magnificent, hidden, unexpected, atmospheric and inviting.