Friday, November 25, 2011

Africa (Part 8)

Tour versus Independent
One of the areas that I have recently been thinking about is the question of organised travel (tours) verses independent travel.  This certainly is not something which is simply answered and ultimately it will depend on a number of factors, but most of all it will come down to the individual.  But for myself I would say that I am firmly in the independent camp.
I have thoroughly enjoyed my time on the tour through Africa and it has been amazing to have been able to share it with a group of people.  I openly acknowledge that if I had tried to do something similar independently then I would have seen less than half of what I saw on the tour.  However there are a number of things about the tour that I found draw-backs.  The first and most significant is that I would say to you that I have seen Africa but not experienced it.  What I mean by that is obviously I have been to all of the amazing sights (photos of some of these are below) but with 22 other people it is very difficult to have an intimate one on one experience with locals (although I have managed from time to time have some of these experiences).  In addition we were constantly being told where to go and how to do things, something which I take great pleasure in discovering myself.  On the flip side I would also acknowledge that now I have the confidence to come back to Africa and travel independently and also I know the areas that I liked. 
The other interesting thing about tours is that you obviously have absolutely no control over who will be in your group, something that I was fairly fortunate with as we had good (and interesting) people.  For those that know me well, whatever the group dynamics ended up being was not a huge issue as I am comfortable in my own company and often will (and did) go off alone, I will give one such example below.
So to sum it up, I am very glad that I did the tour but certainly next time I am in Africa, I will travel independently but supplement that travel with much shorter, local tours (say up to 5 days).
Heading Out
As I mentioned above there was a number of times when I would go off to do my own thing and just have a bit of ‘me time’.  One such example was when we were in Namibia.  The afternoon that we arrived at the camp there was an optional activity to go and see some rock carvings, which I chose not to do.  Rather I had decided to go for a walk.  After gathering my supplies, which was basically my camera and water, I started to head out of the camp site.  On the way out I walked past the tour leader and simply said that if I am not back by dark, I will be in that direction and pointed to the north, out into the desert.  He just laughed and said have fun. 
The area that we were staying in was very remote and I felt a certain amount of exhilaration as I headed into the desert, headed into what was unknown for me.  My first target was to climb a hill that was off in the distance.  It was a fairly easy climb although in a couple of spots there was some loose scree which required a bit of extra care.  Once I was up the top I found a rock ledge that I sat on and simply stared across the vast open space and allowed my mind to wander free.
After relaxing at the top of the hill and soaking in the moment, I decided to walk down the back of the hill and then cut across to a dry creek bed.  From there I knew that the creek bed crossed the road which led back into the camp site.  All very easy landmarks to stumble across and therefore little chance of becoming lost.
Walking through the creek bed I was taking much delight in trying to work out all of the different tracks that I could see in the sand, when I came across some easily recognisable ones, those of elephants.  With some excitement I decided to follow the tracks and as I did, there were also some droppings which indicated that they had been here not too long ago.  Following the tracks further took me from the main dry river bed to a secondary channel that was much narrower. 
As I started to walk down this narrow channel with limited visibility I was fascinated to see how my body/emotions reacted to me being in this new situation.  All my senses were heightened, my heart was pounding in my chest and every noise drew my gaze and thorough inspection.  All of this was brought on by the fact that I simply do not know how elephants behave in the wild but I did know that it was not a good idea to startle them.  So I cautiously followed the channel for some distance, tentatively rounding each new turn and pushing myself to go further.  However, after sometime I knew that it I had to turn back as it was going to be dark soon.  While I had not been successful in finding the elephants, on the way back to the camp I did feel a sense of joy, a sense of being alive because I had given it a good go.

The following is just a very limited selection of some of the landscape photos that I have taken... 

Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda
Lake Bunyonyi, Uganda


Fish River Canyon, Namibia





Namibia, General



Namib Desert, Namibia (another time I just walked out into the unknown)





Waterberg Plateau, Namibia

Gweta, Botswana


Lake Malawi, Malawi



Zanzibar, Tanzania








Serengeti, Tanzania

Thursday, November 24, 2011

Africa (Part 7)

People
One of the subjects of my photos that I love to take is that of people.  Trying to capture all of the emotion, all of the essence of someone and of the scene is certainly a challenge and can be incredibly rewarding if in fact you succeed.  However, during my time in Africa I have found that I have not taken too many photos of people.  This is driven from a number of reasons but the foremost is that many of the locals simply do not like having their photos taken.  I cannot speak for them as to why this is the case but I can imagine that they do not want to feel like ‘exhibits’.  A feeling which I can appreciate because when we would arrive in a place, it was interesting to watch the 22 of us (tourists) get off the truck and ‘invade’ an area, something which even I felt a little overwhelmed about.  Even if there were circumstances where a photo was appropriate there were times that if we were in a big group, I still did not take it.  I find it difficult to explain why that was the case, just that it was a feeling that I had.
None the less I have taken some photos of people, who gave me their permission but needless to say I have seen 100s of faces that I would have loved to photograph but at the end of the day, not everything is about a photo. 
The following are some of the photos that I have taken.