Africa (Part 5)

Dance of the Herbivores

As most of you know, one of the main attractions of Africa is the animals.  One of the great pleasures that I have had is to simply watch these animals, in their natural environment.  It is difficult to describe the emotions that I have felt during this time but one of the things that has surprised me is the amount of interaction between all the different herbivores, the dance of the herbivores.  A few such examples are below.

The Rhino Stomp

The sun is setting on another African day and I find myself looking across a waterhole.  The camp site that I am staying at has been set up so that it provides good viewing across the waterhole, but the waterhole remains a wild place.  I am looking into the setting sun which makes the viewing difficult but out in the distance I can see a grey shadowing moving ever so tentatively.  Slowly the shadow begins to take shape and I realise that it is Rhino.  It amazes me that such a large and powerful animal should be so nervous about its approach to the watering hole.  It is taking two steps forward and one step back.  As it moves in it is kicking up dust which is glowing red in the setting sun and creating a stunning scene before me.  Transfixed I watch the Rhino edge closer and closer and finally reach the watering hole.  But even when it is at its destination it would only take a few sips and then step back continuing to look nervous.  It is now dark and the soft flood lights of the camp are lighting the watering hole, something that does not seem to bother the animals.  Suddenly I catch some movement in the corner of my eye and I realise why the Rhino had been so nervous.  Another grey shadow is moving in from the right and I can clearly see the large horn of this second Rhino. 

Speaking softly to my guide she explains that Rhinos are very territorial and will fight very hard to protect their patch.  However, if a male Rhino has a watering hole within his range it will allow other males to come in to drink, it is almost an amnesty.  Watching these two Rhinos I soon realise that it is a very delicate amnesty.  Slowly they approached each other obviously sizing the other up.  Both were kicking up dirt and also snorting to try to show their dominance.  A strong pungent odour drifts across the water hole and it is obvious that they are also marking their territory.  Then the moment of truth as they are standing nose to nose, horns clashing against each other.  But rather than a violent clash of two rival males this seemed more like an acknowledgement of each other, a ritual that was being respected.  This lasted for about half an hour and then the dominate male walked around the near side of the watering hole and allowing the second male to drink at the far side. 

Once again from the corner of my eye, this time to the left, I catch some more movement but this time it is a much larger shadow, an elephant is coming in to drink.  I watch as this large herbivore moves in with what I would describe as confidence.  It comes on the near side of the watering hole, the one that has the dominate Rhino still standing.  As if on a high from the earlier proceedings, the Rhino mock charges the elephant.  The elephant turns to look at it, lowers its tusks and stamps its front foot down as if to say ‘bring it’.  Seemingly realising its mistake the Rhino makes a hasty retreat and the elephant continues to the watering hole to take its fill and I would say that it almost seemed as if the elephant was amused by the events.

The Elephant Swing

At another watering hole, this time during the day, I am watching a group of about 5 elephants drinking and generally enjoying the cool of the water.  Around the edge of the watering hole there are also a number of different antelopes that have come down to drink and seek some refuge from the sweltering day.  I am watching one particular elephant that seems to be watching some of the antelopes with a degree of annoyance and sways its trunk in their direction as if to tell them that they need to back off a little.  The antelopes run back a few steps but then return to the watering hole.  I continue to watch the elephant and can clearly see that it is starting to become frustrated with these antelopes.  Without too much warning the elephant sucks up some water in its trunk and then spurts it at the antelopes, sending them scattering.  I could not help but to laugh out loud.